Fans of Mediterranean cuisine now have two choices in downtown Campbell, with the debut of Cyprus Bistro Cafe almost directly across Campbell Avenue from downtown staple Olio Cafe.
While Olio's menu features dishes extracted from Italy, Spain and North Africa, Cyprus is inspired by Greece, Turkey and the Middle East in addition to its namesake island. Anchoring the kitchen is Omar Kannout; his menu will delight vegetarians and the many of us who are regularly seeking out local, organic ingredients, but fish, lamb and other meats are also carded. On a first visit, I enjoyed swordfish nicely grilled, not over-sauced and served with pilaf and grilled vegetables. Paired with an organic Italian pinot grigo from the restaurant's all-organic wine list, it was quite satisfying. A friend enjoyed halibut prepared in a similar manner. I'd like to see Kannout add tuna, salmon or other fish.
The mezze sampler plate with tabbouleh, dolmas, hummus and other dips is a great start for two and price at only $10. In fact, value is a theme throughout the Cyprus menu. Mixed salad for just $5? Got it. Delicious wines at around $25?--yes, and while you won't recognize some of the producers because they are small, certified organic, with limited duration, they are worth trying. The adventure of ordering an unknown wine is, for me, among the best reasons to seek out independent, neighborhood bistros exactly like this.
Service was appropriately attentive. Cyprus has been open just 3 1/2 weeks, and is clearly still working out a few bugs. On a Friday night one type of bread had run out by 7:30 PM and the young staff was a little scattered. For me, these issues are completely forgiveable, as I'm far more interested in supporting the dream of a new chef and owner than harping on little difficulties. We need independent, neighborhood cafes that take chances both with plates and wines.
Cyprus is open for lunch and dinner six days a week (closed Mondays), at 379 East Campbell Avenue; call (408) 370-3400 for reservations. Olio is at 384 East Campbell Avenue and is open daily, 5 PM to 9 PM and until 10 PM on weekends; call 408.378.0335 or book via OpenTable.
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